28 June 2023

My second friend from Bulgaria!

James, who I talked about yesterday, was not available to take me around today. So, he sent Branimir to pick me up. Branimir is my second friend from Bulgaria! You might remember Zoy from Madaba Tree of Life in Jordan who was the first person I knew from Bulgaria.

I had the whole day to myself with Branimir. Learnt a lot – both about Bulgaria as well as Scotland from him. Our discussions got so interesting that I asked him to join me in the boat and we continued with our discussions. From politics to economics to cultural changes in the last twenty years.

From the description of the country, I need to put Bulgaria in my list to visit quickly. Now, I know a large family there who can help me learn about the country!

5 June 2023

Our guide and driver in Roatan – Darson

One of the two people who taught me a lot about the island in Darson. I will write about the other one soon. Darson was our designated driver to take us from the airport to the hotel. As it often happens in my foreign trips, I start making friends with the driver from the airport and then have them take charge of our trips in the foreign place.

Darson did an excellent job of suggesting some great places to visit – which you have seen the pictures of in my previous posts. Love his sense of time and his care for foreigner tourists.

BTW, I am not sure whether he realizes this – but his T-shirt is very funny. Do you get the reference?

The picture was taken just as I said Bye to him at the airport!

If you ever come to the island, reach out to Darson. He is a great guy.

29 April 2023

Captain Tom Sawyer!

No kidding, that was the name of our captain. He was born and brought up in Green Turtle Cay. We went out for a walk where he told us the history of pretty much every single house – those that were standing and those that were blown away by hurricane Dorian in 2019.

We also saw the cemetery where his parents are buried. And then finally came to a town square where his dad’s bust has been put up (for supporting the island’s progress).

Captain Sawyer’s daughter is studying in Tennessee and his nephew is in Roswell, Georgia. Which is one town over from me. I have a feeling this is not the last time I have seen him!!

12 February 2023

My guide and driver in El Salvador

Victor Gabriel Hernandez joins my long list of driver-guide in a foreign country. Like the fourteen before me, he has been teaching me all the details of culture, politics, education and history of the country. Over lunch together, I got to know about his life journey. He has now convinced me to make a 4 hour trek to the top of Santa Ana mountain and back tomorrow!

10 October 2022

The best part of Jordan!!

Without a shred of doubt, the best part of Jordan was to get to know Brother Mahmoud’s family. Our first dinner in Jordan was with the al-Ramamneh family at their place last Sunday. And our last dinner in Jordan was last night outside with them again.

The younger son Suhaib is the most fluent in English. So, I tended to talk to him more. For a kid that just entered his twenties, he clearly has a very intelligent head on his shoulders. Very independent minded and very caring. He would call on his dad morning and evening to make sure everything was okay for the whole trip that Mahmoud was out of home in South Jordan with us. He has some fascinating ideas in his head and has an uncommon balance in opinions. I sure hope to have more discussions with him.

The elder son Thair is a little more reserved. At the first dinner, he did not talk much by himself. But in the second dinner he was very open. We talked about his work and aspirations in life in general. He came across as the strong and silent types. Next time, we hope to meet his Turkish girlfriend Noor too.

Then there is Amal. She takes hospitality to a whole new level. If I admired a piece of art in her house, she would bring it down and offer it as a gift! She even opened her bangles from her arm and insisted that Sharmila accept them as gifts since they matched the earrings Sharmila was wearing! On the first night, she was a little busy with hosting duties. But yesterday, we were outside. So, we talked about her family and brothers and sisters a lot. She used to be a teacher and a principal in a school. (now retired). Wonderful woman.

And finally, there is my Brother Mahmoud. We bonded from the first drive from Amman airport to the Dead Sea early May this year. It has been a relationship that has only strengthened with every day. Throughout this trip, we got to know about him and his background more and more. He lost his dad a few years back. He was 110 years old when he died!!!

Mahmoud is a great dad too. He is always careful about the example he sets in front of his family. As en example, he would not drink (like beer) in front of his sons. Here is the funny part – Suhaib and Thair told me how much their dad likes beer!!! Still he won’t drink in front of them!!!

The beauty of Jordan is enough to make us come back again. But what makes it mandatory is getting to see this beautiful family again.

There was talk of visiting Lebanon and Syria together (by road from Jordan)! Inshallah!!

2 October 2022

Warm welcome in Amman!

Mahmoud and I became great friends during my last trip to Amman. He took me around his country and guided me with a lot of history and geography lessons.

“You have to promise to come back and bring your family back next time!”, were his parting words when we bid good bye last time.
“I definitely will”, I had promised him.
“You will meet my family and have dinner with us”, he had graciously invited.
“Indeed!!”

After that we have kept up on Whatsapp and occasional phone calls.

He was the first person there at the airport waiting for us when we finally came out of the customs area.

He was clearly overjoyed to see us!

He pronounces my name the Arabic way – almost like “Rajab”. He explained to Sharmila the good times we had last time when we went around in our adventures.

“Rajab is not my friend. He is my brother,” he explained to her.

“My family has been talking about you for the last whole week. They have been waiting eagerly! You have to have dinner with us tomorrow.”

“We will do so!”, I assured him as we sped away in the dark from the airport for our over an hour ride to the Dead Sea.

Always very reassuring to get a great welcome in a foreign country!

11 May 2022

An old tradition – relived

One of the best ways to learn about a new country, I have found, is to make friends with a local driver and then keep him or her for the whole trip. Usually that relationship starts from the trip from the airport to the hotel or the first trip out of the hotel.

There have been some incredible learnings on the way. Like Jorge taking us to a completely desolate waterfall that no visitors visit. Or Giacomo taking us to a beautiful spot for lunch when I asked him “Where would you take your girlfriend to that is not visited by tourists?” in Italy. There was I Wayan in Indonesian, Juan in Chile, Henrique in Azores, Mohammad in Oman…. I have about 15 such great friends in my list. What always started with strangers on a drive invariably continued as a lifelong friendship. Of course, the annual birthday calls are always there to remind each other of the great memories I still cherish.

This trip, I made – hopefully another life long – relationship with Mahmoud. He picked me up from the airport and we hit it off immediately. He was, of course, extremely knowledgeable about the whole place. But more importantly, he got it very quickly that I was more interested in places of natural beauty and far less in historical importance.

We got to know about each others’ families. I was very excited to hear about his two sons’ career plans. Hopefully, they will all visit us in the US sometime.

Meanwhile, I cannot wait to go back to Jordan with my family and meet his family!

29 March 2022

My first Kurdish friend!

The vans picked us up from our hotel to take us to the winery an hour away where we were going to have our Corporate offsite. Anand, our local executive in Portland, had taken care of all the logistics.

I got to sit in the front next to the driver. The team knows I suffer from car sickness among other things – like fear of heights, fear of closed places and sometimes, sheer lunacy. Maybe I enjoy the last bit rather than suffer from it.

In any case, I sit next to the driver. A complete stranger. But then again, as Kelly had once described me “You know no stranger”

“What is your name?”, I asked the young, rather comely looking driver.
“Abraham”, replied the soft spoken gentleman without talking his eyes off the road.
“So, have you lived all your life in Portland?”
“No, sir! For fifteen years.”
“Where were you before this?”
“Kurdistan”
“Wait, what??”
“You know Kurdistan?”
“Of course, I know Kurdistan. I love your music.”
“Really?”, he asked looking at me, for the first time taking his eyes off the road for a split second.
“Wait. How is your name Abraham? Are you not a Muslim?”
“Yes. But there are a lot of Jewish people in Kurdistan.”
“I did not know that. Are you Jewish?”
“No. My mother’s best friend was. And when I was born, she had asked if my mom would name me Abraham (a Jewish name). And that was how I got my name.”
“Fascinating!”

“But you said you love our music.”
“Yes, my favorite song from your place is Kamarey Kamarey. I have heard the one by the Rashtak group. Do you know that song?”

For the second time, he took his eyes off the road.
“You know Kamarey Kamarey?”
“Well, I know the tune. But I do not know the meaning.”
“Wow! I have never met anybody in this country who knows our country songs. How do you know songs from our country?”

I explained to him that when I had first learnt that the gypsies in Romania actually originated from Rajasthan, India, I had looked up their migration path. And studied what effect it had to the local music. As nomads, you do not show your culture thru paintings and artisanship. You will have too many things to carry a\round. So, music was the way. That time, I had listened to a lot of songs from places like Kurdistan, Azerbaijan etc.

I told him that in India, “Kamarey” can roughly mean a room or the waist in different languages. What was it in Kurdish? I learnt that the song lyrics were referring to the waist!! What a connection!

I got to know that my young friend Abraham went from Kurdistan to Turkey and then eventually left Turkey for the USA. I also found out that he knew Farsi.

Sticking to the theme of music, I asked him –
“You know Farsi? Here is another song you might know. Have you heard…” and then in my terrible Farsi pronunciation, I went on to sing “Man Ahmad-e Aam”.

He immediately took his eyes off the road and stared at me. “Oi, oi”?

“Oi,oi”, I confirmed.
We both knew the song!! But neither could remember the singer. We could describe how she looked but for the life of us, we could not remember her name.

By this time, we had reached our destination. Abraham and I took a picture together, became Facebook friends and parted.

That night, I had a FB message from him… “Googoosh, Mr. Roy”

Googoosh it was!! I suddenly remembered the Iranian singer’s name!!

I can’t wait to meet Abraham the next time I am in Portlandia!!

21 August 2021

This has to be some kind of a sign from above!

“Is this what you do full time?”
“No. I usually drive Lyft or Uber during the weekends”
“What do you do during the week?”
“Oh! I take care of a business we have and the kids”

“What would you like to do when you grow up?”, I pressed on with my Lyft driver Osman
“I want to work in startups. Do you know how I can join a startup?”
“Do you know a lot of coding?”
“No, I can learn though. I also know foreign languages – Russian, Turkish… can that help?

“Wait a minute. You know Russian and Turkish? Going by your name, are you Turkish?”
“No”.
“Where are you from?”
“Guess.”
“I do not know – going by the first name – some place in the middle east?”

“I am from Azerbaijan!”
“AZERBAIJAN?” I said so loudly that he turned back while driving to check what just happened.
“Yes”
“Well, I think you are not going to believe me. But you are only the second person I have ever met from Azerbaijan. And the first one was just a couple of weeks back!”
“Really? In Atlanta? There are only four Azerbaijani families in Atlanta.”
“No, in Providence, Rhode Island. I was there with my daughter. We went to a restaurant by the river. And the lady who ushered us in said she was from Azerbaijan. I remember her name was Shams.”
Then after checking my phone, I went on… “Shams Aliyeva is the full name”
“Yes. That is an Azerbaijani name.”

I told him how I learnt a lot about the country from her. Before that, I had heard about the country for the first time in my third grade while reading Tintin (The Crab with the Golden Claws) back in 1975. And that while I have never been to Azerbaijan, I had once flown over it while going from Istanbul to Bishkek.

“What were you doing in Bishkek?”
“Well, my friend Roger and I were on an adventure trip to Mongolia”
“You should now visit my country.”
“I will absolutely do so. In fact, that is what I was telling Shams the other day too!”
“You will love Baku, the Caspian Sea, the beaches and the mountains!”
“Well, I met two of you in a matter of weeks. That is a sign to me already!”

“But do not go to Armenia and then to my country. We have a difficult relationship.”
“I know. Like India and Pakistan.”
“Exactly”, he said while nodding his head.

By this time I had to get off at my motorbike shop where it had gone for servicing. Before getting off, Osman and I took a picture and agreed to grab a coffee in Cumming, GA sometime!!

Roger, if you are reading this, let’s do a quick trip to Azerbaijan some time. Anybody else cares to join?