The trek through Mongolia pales in comparison to what I am about to embark on. Assuming I can pull this off.

I am headed to one of the most remote countries in the world. In fact, if you Google “least visited country in the world,” my destination will pop up: Tuvalu.

If you discount the construction workers and other temporary visitors, only about 200 to 300 tourists visit Tuvalu each year. That is less than one tourist a day on average!

When I asked T-Mobile whether Tuvalu was one of the 210 countries they have roaming partnerships with, they practically laughed at me.

The first time this tiny island nation caught my attention was when I read that, because of rising sea levels, parts of the country may become uninhabitable within a few decades. In fact, Australia has begun offering a special migration pathway for Tuvaluans as the country prepares for an uncertain future. At the same time, Tuvalu is trying to preserve its identity in a fascinating way. The government is creating a digital replica of the nation in the metaverse so that its culture and sovereignty can endure even if the physical islands are eventually lost.

Incredibly, Tuvalu’s biggest source of income is its internet domain: .tv. Television networks, streaming companies, and media businesses around the world pay to use it. Not bad for a country that most people struggle to find on a map.

The country’s nine islands together cover barely ten square miles. You could walk across some of them in minutes. If you are inspired my the recent World Cup and try to kick a ball or two, you will be well advised not to kick very hard. You will not get that ball back from the ocean.

What I am most excited about, though, is the runway. There are only two flights a week. Once the little propeller plane takes off, the runway transforms into the town square. Kids play soccer, families stroll around, neighbors gather to chat, and life simply carries on. I cannot wait to kick a ball around on an airport runway.

For all that excitement, I am also a bit apprehensive.

There is no cell phone coverage for me. Internet connectivity is unreliable at best. There are no ATMs. Credit cards are largely useless. Cash only, and that too, only Australian dollars.

Needless to say, there is no five-star resort waiting for me. After digging through travel forums, I found a gentleman who rents out rooms in his home. We exchanged a couple of emails, after which I asked how I should reserve my room. Should I send a deposit?

He seemed puzzled.

My email requesting a room was apparently the reservation.

With hardly any cars on the island, I am now wondering what it is going to feel like dragging my suitcase down the main road (also, the island’s only road)!

And yes, there is one more thing nagging at the back of my mind.

If volcanic activity interferes with flights again, as it did in Vanuatu, I could find myself stranded for another four days.

The next four days (or more, subject to flight cancellations) promise to be an adventure in adaptation for me. This for a guy who likes to live his life on a military-precision clock!

Ah, well! Ready or not, Tuvalu… here I come!

Usually, in a Marriott hotel, I get a gift when I check in for being a long-time customer. From some extra points to chocolate to a wine bottle to a simple card – I have seen them all. This, I have not seen. This is in the Sheraton, Fiji.

They wrote the whole thing down with small leaves of a local tree!

We are a bit delayed because… there was not enough boarding space on the ground on the tarmac! This was a first for me!!

The propeller blades are on. And we are ready to take off!!

The picture is a bit blurry from inside the aircraft…

Fantastic beaches. Looks like there are people who live there too.

The outer ones are on the northwest side.

If you ran up and down the island – tip to tip – three full round trips, you would have finished your 5K run then!!

We just landed in Funafuti. Check out the people gathered around to watch the plane. And further note, there is no fence between them and us!!

Now they have to wait for the plane to pass for them to cross. One of them came well prepared with an umbrella in case he got stuck on the other side of the runway.

The plane left the runway and crossed the main road which has been duly blocked with cones for us to get to the parking bay.

In terms of infrastructure, it is even beyond Dalanzadgad – the small mining town in Mongolia!

Decided to walk along the main road back to the airport. Where the main town is. The idea was to stock up on some dry food and water.

The water, meanwhile was highly distracting for walking at any good pace. I kept stopping every few steps to get another view.

As beautiful as the water is, the rising ocean levels will all but consume the entire island. Lately, the water level has been rising at a much faster pace. That structure you see is an UNDP project to quickly create embankments – else the runway will be submerged in five years, making the island and its people all but unreachable!!

This is the main island I am staying in.

It was just as easy as that. Stood there and took a selfie. Realized that there were a couple of amused locals looking me as they were crossing the runway on their scooter.

People have their family members buried right in front of their house – in their frontyard to be precise.

The one place that was nearby had two items on the menu. It is the same everyday – a burger or a half or half pound chicken with rice.

Burger it was! Since it also came with fries!!

Curious if anybody ever uses it.

That was a lot of walking in the hot, humid weather. I came back to my room, took a shower, and stretched out for a bit. As I rested, I found myself wondering what I was going to do for the next three days.

Then I rented a scooter.

And that changed everything.

Now I do not want to leave the island.

There is something magical about riding around with the warm evening breeze on your face. There are no helmets anywhere on the island, which somehow adds to the wonderfully carefree feeling.

Now, I just need to make sure that I do not miss my flight with all that scootering around!

The runway, as I had mentioned before, doubles up as the island’s evening recreation center. Around five o’clock, the whole village pours onto the runway. Kids, parents, grandparents… everybody. Soccer, rugby, volleyball, you name it. Some are out for an evening stroll while others simply stand around soaking in the energy and cheering everyone on.

I have seen airports with duty-free shops, lounges, and even spas. This is the first one with a pickup soccer game on the runway.

This kid was learning to crawl… ON THE RUNWAY!!!