They all look the same – like this! Remember how my friend William had told me how the design of the clothes will tell you where the wearer is from? Well, this is the particular design for men and women in San Juan. The colors might differ. For example, look at the design around the neck for the woman. And the 24 boxes with X below that. This means she is from San Juan. Look at the guy’s shirt and go back to the picture of the huge awning in the street a few posts back. Exactly the same.

In fact, there is a way these things are worn that can tell you whether the woman is married or not. I was so fascinated counting the lines that I did not listen to the explanation William gave. The reason I was counting the lines is that all that design is derived from Mayan calendar. I think they have 19 months – 18 times 20 plus 5 days. Somehow that is where the 24 boxes come. I will have to figure out. And right around the collar you can count 7 days in each design. I think there are 365 of them in all.

Love the history and culture of the Mayans.

For a person sworn to minimalism, I have an unhealthy attraction towards cotton shirts made with some sorts of Mayan design. I first discovered it in a small village called Valladolid in the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico. Next, I saw those shirts in Cabo San Lucas.

Last year in Feb, I saw those in El Salvador. And in Nov, I saw them in the markets in Cancun.

Of course, whenever I say “saw”, I mean “bought”. You will almost always see me with one of those shirts on unless it is winter.

What makes the shopping difficult is that I do not like Guyavera style pocket (bolsillos) and I want a full neck collar. Whenever, I see those, I pick up a few.

I have also learnt that I should be buying one size bigger since after a couple of machine washes the cotton shirts always shrink in size.

Last year, Leo in El Salvador had told me to buy them from Antigua. In fact, many of those shirts I bought in different Central American countries said “Made in Guatemala”.

That is the real reason why I came to Antigua. Or at least the main reason.

Tried out a few markets in Antigua. It was William who said that I should buy from the artisans directly. So, where are those artisans, I had asked him. All around the lake, he said.

And thus, here I am… in San Juan by Atitlan at a weaver’s place. And she is showing me how she does the weaving. The loom part, I understand. I asked her how does she make those bright colors. You can see all those cotton hanging on the wall.

This was the stunning part. All those colors are made using some plant or plant based parts!! Since it is Easter season, she volunteered to show how to make purple cotton. We started with pure white thread and then she showed how she makes the purple color from local plants. And then to bind the color, she used the juices that ooze from plantain trees. I tried to wash off the color after the treatment with water – to no avail.

One thing I forgot to mention – the starting points are either white cotton or brown cotton. Never knew that cotton can be brown in color too.

Now, I am a bit worried that I might have gone overboard. Sharmila might have a thing or two to say once she sees all the shirts I have bought. I do think all the comparisons she is bound to make about me ridiculing her for her trips to Sephora, Black Market White House and all that is not going to be fair. It is not like I can go back to Antigua every weekend like she goes to her places.

That said, I think I could have bought a few less.

… turns out it is a second hand clothes place!

The Mayans have their own colors in their flag. And they are derived from the four colors of corn that they grow!!

… this street goes straight down to the lake

Everything about Mayan culture is very colorful. And all these colors have meanings and significance. More about it later.

This is how an average street in San Juan looked today!

So, that wrinkly old arm on the upper part of the picture – that be yours truly. That small spot you see on my hand – that be a bee. In fact, at one point there were a few of them. The shocker is that I am not jumping up and down.

You know why? I had just learnt from my new friend (lower part of the picture) at the apiary in San Juan that Mayan bees do not have stings. Woo hoo!!

I did ask him about his indigenous lineage at first to make sure he knew what he is talking about.

That said, I certainly learnt a thing or two from this gentleman! As my old friend Dev Ghoshal would say – completely inconsequential data – it is not like the next time I see a bee I am going to establish its MAyan heritage thru 23andBee or something like that – but still, it feels good to learn new things!

Bombay, circa 1993?